In the scenic city of Venice, known for its timeless beauty, ancient palazzos are mirrored in tranquil canals, where water dictates the pace of everyday life. Despite its charm, Venice faces challenges due to overtourism, with millions of visitors flocking to the city each year, many only staying briefly to enjoy popular attractions like Piazza San Marco and gondola rides.
However, away from the bustling tourist spots, a serene scene unfolds. Female rowers skillfully maneuver a traditional Venetian boat called “batèla a coa de gambero” through the quiet canals, passing by laundry hanging from windows. Unlike the iconic gondola associated with elegance, the batela is a practical vessel designed for transporting goods and people in the shallow waters of Venice.
Elena Almansi, a native Venetian and accomplished rower, is a key figure in Row Venice, a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the art of Venetian rowing. With roots dating back almost two decades, the group imparts lessons in the traditional Venetian rowing style, known as “voga alla veneta,” which involves a unique standing position and a curved oarlock called “forcola.”
The journey of these female rowers has not been without challenges. Initially met with resistance from some traditionalists, the women persevered and even revived rare batela replicas to uphold the heritage of Venetian rowing. They have also advocated for gender equality in the sport, successfully achieving equal prize money for women in regattas.
The younger generation, like Viola Ghigi, continues to embrace this cultural legacy, racing alongside their predecessors in local regattas. For Ghigi and her peers, rowing embodies their identity and connection to Venice’s rich history. They see themselves not as competitors to the gondoliers, but as preservers of a cherished tradition in a city facing modernization and tourism pressures.
Row Venice’s instructors, recognized by Italy’s national Olympic committee, reinvest proceeds to support female racers and maintain visibility in a field historically dominated by men. As Elena Almansi leads the way on the batela, these women symbolize movement and progress in a city often perceived as stagnant, demonstrating their commitment to keep the Venetian rowing tradition alive and thriving.
